How to Make your Brows Beautiful. Easy-to-do Tips
‘Brushes brows, doesn’t brush hair’
It’s all about the brows! They make such a difference to your face. When well groomed they add structure, open your eyes and even make you look more awake. There are tonnes of treatments and styling options available that you can do at home or have done at a salon. From waxing and threading to tinting and filling, we’ve never paid as much attention to our brows as we do right now.
In this section, I take a look at the brow basics, which products to invest in, which treatments to have and what to do if you have troublesome eyebrows. After this, I walk you through a handful of looks that will show off your brows whatever shape or style you have.
I love eyebrows. A well-groomed, defined brow can be as powerful as an eye lift (without the injections)! They can change your look and your face more than any make-up product. Neat brows are my biggest ‘hide-the-hangover’, tired-eyes tip because they make you look more awake, instantly.
Like us, eyebrows come in all shapes and sizes. From bushy to sparse, holey and scarred, to more tadpole than tamed. Don’t despair, there’s always a solution to help you groom your ultimate brow.
If you’ve never had your brows professionally shaped then put this book down, get on the blower (‘phone’ for those across the pond) and book an appointment immediately! No matter how good you think you are at tweezing your own brows, the professionals will always do it that little bit better!
My favourite brow treatment, without a doubt, is waxing. I’m a wimp. Any type of hair removal makes me as dramatic as a soap-opera character that’s just found out that their next-door neighbour is actually their mother! And that’s exactly why I like waxing – it’s quick. Full stop. Added to that, it’s precise and gives a clean finish.
Threading can be amazing if you find the right person to do it and aren’t as much as a wimp as me! It’s an ancient art form and many people swear by it. For me, it’s just too speedy. I always panic that a wrong hair might be removed by mistake. And one wrong hair taken from your brow is comparable to shaving off half of the hair on your head, right?! (Well, it is in my mind.)
I wouldn’t have my brows waxed without having them tinted, even though my natural brow colour is dark brown. (Although I’ve had them tinted for so many years that they could be blonde for all I know!) A brow tint makes your brows look fuller and healthier no matter your brow shape or colour. It takes about three minutes and lasts about six weeks – it’s a no-brainer.
If I’d been writing this book ten years ago, I would have told you to avoid tattooing at all cost! However, technology has changed and now there are some incredible brow artists out there. This can be the perfect treatment for someone whose brows are non-existent whether that’s the result of over-plucking or alopecia, or a side-effect of medical treatment. If this is the right choice for you, then do your research. You want an artist who creates hair-like stokes with the tattoo-gun, not one who block-draws. My aunt recently had this done and it’s made an incredible difference to her face and to her confidence. So it can definitely be worth the money and time. But remember, it’s permanent so make sure that it’s right for you before you go for it.
This is a relatively new technique. Micro-blading is a semi-permanent treatment that tends to last between 18 and 36 months. It’s a manual technique where a tiny, handheld micro-blade deposits the pigment into the superficial dermis of the skin. The results can be amazing if you have very sparse brows, but again, this is a big decision with a pretty hefty price tag so I’d try waxing and tinting before you make up your mind.
I first learnt about brows working at Benefit. They are the brow authority, without a doubt, and have been shaping and styling brows since 1976. Their mapping technique works for everyone and makes your brows the best they can be. So, let’s start there. Grab a mirror, a make-up brush and your favourite brow product. And let’s map!
STEP 1 Look straight ahead into a mirror. Hold the brush from the dimple of your nose, straight up to your brow. Mark a line using a brow product. Starting your brow here will make your nose look slimmer.
STEP 2 Hold the brush at the dimple of the nose and straight through your pupil to find the arch. Make sure you’re looking straight ahead and mark this point. Positioning your arch in the right place will give an instant eye lift.
STEP 3 Hold the brush at the dimple of your nose through the outer corner of the eye, up to the brow. Mark this point. Ending your brow in the right place will lift your cheekbones.
STEP 4 Now that you have perfectly mapped brows you can fill them in. Over the next few pages I show you how to get different brow styles and how to solve different brow dilemmas, but these are the basics.
Enhancing your brows is quick and easy and will lift your whole look. For this natural look, I use a brow fibre gel. These products mimic the appearance of real hair and work well alone or over the top of any other brow product. This is also pretty foolproof, I promise!
STEP 1 Brush away from the brow hair first, using the brow fibre gel.
STEP 2 Brush back in the same direction as the hair. This will coat each hair from root to tip, making the most of the product.
STEP 3 (optional) Create an instant eye lift by drawing a line beneath them with a brow highlighter pencil. And blend!
all you need…
brow fibre gel
brow highlighter pencil (optional)
If you are worried about colouring in your eyebrows because you have fair hair, don’t be. Look how great it looks!
Sometimes eyebrows have very little shape or have been over-plucked meaning that they are not the shape that we want them to be. If you’re confident with make-up, you can absolutely draw a full, arched brow in using brow products. However, this takes time and, if done wrong, can make you look like you’ve ‘stuck’ your brow on. So this look will define your brows and make them look thicker, without going OTT.
STEP 1 Map your brows so you know where they should start, arch and end. Using a sharp brow pencil, draw a line slightly under your natural arch. This will add definition and make your brows look slightly thicker and more defined.
STEP 2 Fill in your brow with the brow pencil, using hair like strokes to give a natural look.
STEP 3 Brush through the brow with a brow brush. (All good brow pencils have these on the end of them.) Brushing through the brow will soften and even out any areas where you may have applied too much product.
all you need…
brow fibre gel
STEP 4 Brow fibre gels are the best invention EVER! They make your brows look fuller and thicker instantly due to the clever micro-fibres in the formula. Brush against the hair first to coat the underneath of the hairs. (Think of this as like back-combing the hair on the end.)
STEP 5 Brush the fibre gel through the brow in the direction of the hair growth. This will coat the top of the hair and keep your brows in place.
Defined brows, complete!
When I talk about ‘bold’ brows, I don’t mean crazy, stuck-on, comedy brows. I mean full, groomed, power brows. Anyone can have bold brows, whether you have the hair there or not. Although bold brows don’t suit everyone. For this look I’ve used a cream gel brow product because I find this easy to control, buildable and long-wearing.
note how fair her natural brows are
STEP 1 Map your brows so you know where they should start, arch and end. Draw a fluid line using a cream gel brow product and a thin brow brush slightly underneath the brow arch. This will give the brow a bit of extra width whilst still holding the shape. Avoid the front section of the brow as keeping this section soft is the key to a good bold brow
STEP 2 (optional) Using the same product and brush, draw a fluid line on top of the brow. Going slightly above the hair line will give you a fuller looking brow. If you want a softer finish, avoid the top line.
all you need…
cream gel brow product
STEP 3 Fill in the brow using the flat side of the brush, avoiding the front section.
STEP 4 Without dipping the brush back into the product, run the brush upwards through the front of the brow. This will add a small amount of product into this section.
STEP 5 Brush through the brow with a brow spoolie to blend the colour through.
The darker the brow shade you use, the bolder the brows will look.
A feathered brow is a cool alternative to a bold brow. It’s slightly softer and can add edge to your overall look.
STEP 1 Map your brows so you know where they should start, arch and end. Draw a fluid line under the brow, using an brow gel, avoiding the front of the eyebrow. We’ll be using a different product there as we don’t want to add too much weight to the front as this can make the brow look stuck on.
STEP 2 Fill in the brow, using the same product and the flat side of the brush, again avoiding the front section.
STEP 3 Use a brow fibre gel brush through the brow to mimic the appearance of real hair. Brush through the entire eyebrow, including the front. If your hair allows it, brush the front up slightly for a feathered look. If you don’t have hair that looks right brushed up at the front, then use an ultra-fine brow pencil to draw hairs upwards at the front of the brow.
all you need…
precise brow gel
brow fibre gel
ultra-fine brow pencil (optional)
The MAKE-UP MANUAL
Your beauty guide for brows, eyes, skin, lips and more by Lisa Potter-Dixon