Wednesday, 20 Jun 2018

Powder. Mineral Makeup

Once you try mineral makeup, you’ll understand why so many women love it. It’s so light, it feels like you have nothing on your face, yet it stays on until you take it off. I love the natural look mineral powder provides. It lays over fine lines instead of in them, which gives your face a more youthful appearance. Mineral makeup is also more forgiving than commercial foundations because you don’t have to match your skin tone as closely. This all sounds wonderful, doesn’t it? It is, as you’ll soon see.

Mineral makeup basics

It took about 2 years for me to work out the color grinds for the foundation and another year or so to perfect the grinds for the blush, bronzer, eye shadow, and lipstick recipes in this book. Experimenting certainly can get frustrating—during the early days, when nothing came out like I wanted it to. But it all finally came together.

This chapter is full of what I’ve learned from years of experience. Here I share the basic blend tones, called color grinds, you can use to match your skin type and create your perfect shade. Color grinds are blends of micas and oxides very finely ground together in an electric coffee grinder or with a mortar and pestle to create a new color. You might have to blend together several color grinds to achieve the exact shade you want, but that’s just part of the fun!

Many of these recipes are have more than one part. First you make the color grind and then you make the base filler, which is white. Next you add a percentage of the color grind to a percentage of the base filler, grind them together, and you have your foundation!

All the powders, oxides, and micas are available at TKB Trading (tkbtrading.com). I list the exact name of each in the recipes so you can easily find them at TKB and your finished products will look the way they’re supposed to. Use my recipes as a start but then experiment and create your own combinations!

Keep It Clean

It’s absolutely essential that your work area be clean, and you must sanitize all your containers before use. Even if these products are only for yourself, you still need to keep everything bacteria free and use a preservative that kills bacteria and germs. You don’t want to end up with a skin or eye infection because bacteria found its way into your makeup!

You can use white vinegar or 3 percent hydrogen peroxide to clean your workspace. Neither will leave any harmful chemicals that could accidentally contaminate your cosmetics.

Before you start making anything, wipe your counter or workspace with a clean rag or paper towel soaked in vinegar or hydrogen peroxide. Then place a piece of waxed paper on your work area to help make cleanup quick and easy.Wash all your containers, spoons, knives, and any other equipment you’ll use with hot, soapy water, and let them air-dry. When they’re dry, clean the inside of jars, lids, and other containers with alcohol. Let them air-dry again. When they’re dry, put them in a clean zipper-lock plastic bag until you’re ready to use them.

containers

I keep a roll of paper towels and a bottle of alcohol next to me while I’m working so I can wipe a spoon or a knife when needed. You can never be too clean when making beauty products!When making cosmetics, wear a dust mask and latex gloves. You can accidently breathe in the dust from the micas, oxides, and fine powders. And even though you’ve washed your hands, they might still carry some germs on the surface. Better to be safe now than sorry later!

Pressing Pressed Powder

The very name pressed powder indicates you’ll need to press it somehow. In this case, you press it firmly into the container. You pack it in so it’s almost a solid. To do this, you need a tamper, or something to gently pound down the powder. I’ve found a wooden dowel rod works best for this. So grab your empty container and head to your local hardware store.

Look for a dowel that’s the same diameter as your container. It needs to fit snugly into the jar without much wiggle room around the sides. Ask a store employee to cut the dowel into 6-inch (15.25cm) pieces. Then you’ll have several tampers you can use for different powder color so you don’t have to mix the dowels and risk ruining the color. Be sure to sand the ends of the dowel before using. You don’t want any splinters of wood in your pressed powder.

pressed powder

As you’ll see in the recipes, you use jojoba oil to hold the pressed powders together. Getting the right amount to pack the powder but not be too oily is a little tricky. If you use too much jojoba oil, the powder will stick to the dowel. Use too little, and it won’t hold the powder together. Here’s what seems to work best:

  1. After you’ve blended the makeup and added the 1⁄4 teaspoon (1.2 milliliters) jojoba oil and the preservative, use a pipette to add 2 more drops of jojoba oil and blend for at least 1 minute.
  2. Add 4 more drops of jojoba oil, and grind the powders for another minute.
  3. Spoon some of the powder into the jar, and using your dowel and a small hammer, gently tap on the end of the dowel, pressing the powder into the jar.
  4. Add more powder, and repeat until the jar is full.
  5. When the jar is just about full, add the last amount of powder. Then place a pressing ribbon or a small piece of fabric on top, and press to give your powder a nice finish.

These powders will still break and crumble if they’re carried loose in a purse, but they’ll hold together well otherwise.

Making mineral powder

Modern powder solves important problems – fixes makeup, mats the skin and corrects its tone. The habit of powdering the face appeared not one thousand years ago, and for a long time for this purpose used not the most useful means: a mixture of lead and chalk, rice starch, rice or wheat flour. At the heart of most modern powder – talc (one of the softest minerals), and there is no harmful lead at all, its role is performed by zinc oxide. 

There are many types of powder:

  • Matting Powder for Face
  • Transparent powder
  • Bronzing Powder
  • Moisturizing Powder
  • Powder with the effect of healthy radiant skin
  • Powder on a mineral basis

Mineral foundations are easy to apply, cover what you need them to cover, offer UV protection, and leave your skin looking fresh and natural.

Now for the fun stuff! These first few recipes give you a small amount of a base filler you can use to check the color—without wasting a lot of your sup-plies for something that turns out to be too light or too dark for your skin.

powder

The first thing you want to choose is the type of coverage you want for your foundation. I give you recipes for four types: sheer coverage, medium coverage, maximum coverage, and coverage for darker skin tones. The base filler recipes yield 12 to 18 grams. (These recipes are written in grams because of the tiny amounts used for many of the colors in creating each blend.) That makes up 75 to 90 percent of your foundation recipe and gives you some room to play until you find just the right color grind or blend of color grinds.

What you need…

Scale (one that weighs to the 100th)

Face mask

Latex gloves

Waxed paper

Small paper cups

Measuring spoons and small scoops

7.5 milliliter pipettes

Coffee grinder or mortar and pestle

Zipper-lock plastic bags or two 30-gram sifter jars

Base recipe: natural sheer base filler

This almost-transparent base is the best for young skin that just needs a little color in the evening. This is also the filler base recipe used for the bronzers. You can double or triple it to make a larger amount. Makes 12.6 grams base filler.

8.5g French or rose talc

1.1g titanium dioxide

0.3g silk mica or rice powder

0.4g magnesium stearate

1.7g zinc oxide

0.6g jojoba oil

Preservative (manufacturer’s recommenda-tion)

  1. Put on your face mask and gloves, and put a piece of waxed paper over your work area.
  2. Set your scale to grams, put a small cup on the scale, and push the tare button to zero out the weight of the cup.
  3. Weigh the first ingredient, and pour it into the grinder bowl or mortar.
  4. Place the cup back on the scale, push the tare button again, and continue weighing all the ingredients except the preservative. Add each to the grinder bowl or mortar.
  5. Put the grinder bowl on the grinder, and grind in short spurts for 1 minute. If you’re using a mortar and pestle, hand-grind the powders for several minutes. You should begin to see intense light skin-tone color.
  6. Add the jojoba oil, and grind again in short spurts for 2 minutes. If using a mortar and pestle, grind for 4 or 5 minutes. Add the preservative and grind again until it’s evenly distributed.
  7. Store the base filler in a zipper-lock plastic bag or a clean jar until you’re ready to mix it with a color grind.

If you don’t want to use talc, you can replace it with white kaolin clay, cornstarch, or rice powder. If you have a darker skin tone, avoid using white kaolin clay. It will leave a chalky undertone. The same is true with too much zinc and titanium dioxide. I created a base filler for darker skin, but you might need to make some adjustments.

Medium-coverage base filler

This is a medium-coverage finish that offers a little more coverage than the sheer but not as much as the maximum. If you want, you can double or triple this recipe to make a larger amount. Prepare as directed in the Natural Sheer Base Filler recipe. Makes 18.6 grams base filler.

Medium-coverage base

7g French or rose talc

2.8g titanium dioxide

2g sericite mica

3.4g magnesium stearate

2.8g zinc oxide

0.6g jojoba oil

Preservative (manufacturer’s recommendation)

Maximum-coverage base filler

This base filler gives the best coverage for mature or acne-scarred skin. It’s the one I use. If you like, you can double or triple this recipe to make a larger amount. Prepare as directed in the Natural Sheer Base Filler recipe. Makes 16.3 grams base filler.

Maximum-coverage base

2.8g French or rose talc

3.4g titanium dioxide

5g sericite mica

5g silk mica

1.7g magnesium stearate

2.8g zinc oxide

0.6g jojoba oil

Preservative (manufacturer’s recommendation)

Base filler for darker complexions

This base filler is for darker skin tones. It doesn’t have as much titanium dioxide or zinc so it doesn’t leave a chalky undertone. If you like, you can double or triple this recipe to make a larger amount. Prepare as directed in the Natural Sheer Base Filler recipe. Makes 16.7 grams base filler

dark foundation

8.5g French or rose talc

1.8g titanium dioxide

2.4g sericite mica

2.8g magnesium stearate

0.6g zinc oxide

0.6g jojoba oil

Preservative (manufacturer’s recommendation)

How to apply foundation

I couldn’t tell you how to make mineral foundation and then not tell you how to apply it! You’ll need a soft kabuki brush.Before I apply foundation, I like to use an undermakeup moisturizer and a little concealer under my eyes. If you do, too, give the moisturizer about 5 minutes to soak in and for your skin to be ready for the foundation.Turn the sifter jar that holds your foundation upside down with the lid on and shake out some powder. Turn it right side up again and remove the lid.

foundation

apply foundation

Fill your kabuki brush with the foundation powder, tap the brush against the jar (or gently blow on it) to knock off any excess, and apply the foundation to your face, blending it all the way up to your hairline and down your neck so your neck and face match.For a softer look, brush some foundation in an upward motion as well. This was a trick Marilyn Monroe used to give her skin a soft, kind of transparent look.

Sally Trew

 

 

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