Pucker up! It’s time to get those lips in shape.
I love red lipstick so I’ve started there with the looks in this chapter. Lining the lips is key to achieving the perfect red lip but also for shaping and filling in lips if you don’t naturally have the perfect cupid’s bow. I explain the ways in which you can line different lip shapes to make it easy for you to create a full, kissable pout in no time.
I love lipstick, but I didn’t really suit it until I’d worked out how to apply it properly. You see, I have thin lips and lipstick on thin lips can get pretty messy if it’s just chucked on. Unless you have perfectly full lips, you may understand my frustration. We all come in different shapes and sizes, and our lips are no exception. If you’ve always wondered how to make the most of your lips, how to make them look fuller, or even thinner, how to accentuate your cupid’s bow, or how to stop your lipstick from bleeding, then here’s how. Let’s start with the different lip shapes and where to apply your lipstick and liner to get the perfect pout.
This is me! The key to plumping up thin lips is to overline your lips slightly – not too much.
* Use a lip liner to line around the outside of your lips following the dotted lines above. Follow the natural shape of your lips so that you don’t look like a cartoon!
* If you have a thin lower lip, draw slightly underneath the lip line and along the lip line on top to balance out your bottom lip with your top one.
* Filling in a thin top lip takes practice. Over-draw your top lip slightly. Going too high will look odd, so be sure to follow your natural lip shape, just above it. Try this out at home and see how you feel when you catch a glance of yourself in the mirror. Adjust the line until you are happy to show the world your beautiful self!
This is a great shape lip, but there tends to be no definition on the cupid’s bow.
* Draw a cross in the centre of your upper lip, then draw out around the natural lip line. If you really want to make your cupid’s bow stand out, use a lip liner slightly deeper than your natural lip colour.
* Fill in your lips with lipstick and revel in the beautifully bowed top lip you have created. Genius!
It’s so annoying when your lipstick runs outside your lip line. The best thing to do is to conceal around the lip line. This will act like a barrier. If you find your lipstick runs a lot, stick to a matte product as glosses move more.
This lip shape can make you look sad, so lengthen the outer corners following the dotted lines above to elongate your smile.
Large full lips
To make your lips look less full, draw liner on your lips, just below and above your lip line following the dotted lines above. Then conceal around the lips with the concealer you would use on your face, covering your natural lip line.
Mirror the even side of your lips with your lip liner. Fill in the entire lip with the liner to create an even base before you add lipstick over the top.
If you have small lips, the best thing to do is to elongate them at the outer corners, up to the top of the cupid’s bow. Follow the dotted line above to make lips look fuller.
Soften sharp lips by rounding off the cupids bow and the outer corners. Make sure your liner is blended in perfectly to add to the softening effect.
Use a nude lip liner, the same colour as your lips, to define your lips to begin with. Then fill in with your lipstick, gloss or coloured liner.
A good lipstick can really change your whole look. If I’m feeling a bit down, or if my skin is looking a touch dull, I’ll chuck on a lipstick and feel better instantly! There are so many colours to choose from, but there are four main types of product. Lip liners, lipsticks, lip stains and lip glosses. You can use them individually, all together or not at all! It really is up to you.
Do not skip lining your lips. Lip liners are amazing for adding definition, changing your lip shape and for helping keep your lipstick in place for longer. Although some people find lining a bit tricky, my advice is to give it a go. My top tip is to always make sure liners are sharp and not warm. If you know you’re about to create a badass bright lip, put your lip liner in the fridge for 10 minutes to make sure it’s not too soft to use. If you are in a rush, but still want to define your lips, try a lipstick and liner in one. Yep, these now exist thanks to Benefit Cosmetics!
Always apply lip balm before your lipstick. Leave it for a few minutes to hydrate before you apply lipstick.
Okay, there are thousands of colours out there to choose from, like, actually thousands! Play! Don’t be afraid to try different colours out. If you go to a make-up counter, don’t try a lippy out on the back of your hand and hope for the best. Ask the make-up artist to sanitize it for you and then try it on your lips. You’ll be surprised at how different it looks on. Choosing the texture of your lipstick is most important as it really does change the look of the lip. The three main textures are:
The formula used to create these lipsticks gives no shine at all, they are quite flat but can look great. They tend to be long-wear, but avoid them if you have dry lips as they will only accentuate the dryness.
This is the most common type. They are slightly oilier and more hydrating than matte products. This is the type of lipstick I recommend for everyday wear.
Remember I spoke about my fave 90s lipstick, Heather Shimmer, well yep, that was this formula. These give a lovely shimmer to the lip but can be quite ageing.
I decant my lipsticks into a palette as it’s easier for me to see them and lighter for me to carry. I hate having to throw the beautiful packaging away but this technique is a make-up artist must!
Lip stains do exactly what they say, they stain the lip. Not forever mind you, just until you take them off. These are great for a subtle hint of colour and they are also fab underneath a lipstick as at least you know when your lipstick has worn off, your stain will still be there holding the fort until you make it to a mirror!
If you suffer with dry lips, try a lip scrub, such as Fresh Brow Sugar Lip Scrub, Glam Glow Pout Mud Fizzy Lip Exfoliator and Lush Bubblegum Lip Scrub. Alternatively, gently exfoliate your lips with a dry toothbrush.
I have a love-hate relationship with lip glosses. I love them when they make my lips look hydrated and plump. I hate them when half of the hair from my head is stuck to them! Some glosses are really thick – these are the ones that last the longest and they are also the stickiest. Thin glosses are lovely and hydrating, and tend not to be as sticky, but don’t last as long. Sometimes I mix the two together for a compromise.
If red lipstick were a woman, she’d run the world!
A red lipstick is one of the most powerful pieces of make-up you can own. It adds a touch of glamour that no other make-up product can compete with. Whether you’re a mum or a movie star, a red pout makes you feel like you can achieve anything. However, perfecting the application of a red lip can be a challenge. Of course you can apply it straight from the bullet, but, for many of us, that ends up in wonky looking lips and lipstick on teeth! So this is my favourite way to apply a red lipstick to ensure definition, long wear and perfection. You can, of course, use this technique with any colour you like!
all you need…
2 lip brushes
STEP 1 Exfoliate your lips. (I heart the Lush Bubblegum Scrub, mainly because it tastes delish!) Dry your lips with a tissue and pat a small amount of concealer all over the lips. This will help to fill in any lines, priming them ready for lipstick, and help keep your lippy in place for longer.
STEP 2 Using a lip liner in a similar red to your lipstick, draw a cross in the centre of your lips. This will define (or create if your lips are like mine) your cupid’s bow and ultimately give you the perfect-looking pout!
STEP 3 Draw a line under or along the bottom of the lower lip for definition.
STEP 4 Draw a line down the sides of the top lip from the cross. (All of these steps will make your lips look fuller, believe me.)
STEP 5 Colour in the outer corners of your lips, top and bottom. This is the area that your lipstick tends to vanish from first, especially after a cocktail! By applying liner here, the colour will stay put for longer. Adding a depth of colour here and not in the centre of the lips will also create the illusion of fuller lips.
STEP 6 Take your lipstick and a lip brush (Karla Powell’s are my favourite) and carefully apply your lipstick all over the lips.
STEP 7 Using a clean lip brush and concealer, draw a line around your lips for extra definition. This will also prevent the colour of your lipstick from bleeding.
STEP 8 Leave the lips matte or add a gloss over the top.
STEP 9 There you have it, perfect red lips.
The MAKE-UP MANUAL
Your beauty guide for brows, eyes, skin, lips and more by Lisa Potter-Dixon